Last Christmas, my mother and I decided to take a trip together through Sicily. I'd been years before and knew she'd love driving through the varied landscape of the three-cornered island, from the white limestone walls lining the countryside of dusty Ragusa's farmlands to the black lavic stone of the Catania region.
It had been a long day of driving from Agrigento in the southwest, through Enna and Piazza Armerina, home to the lovely and well-preserved Roman mosaics at the Villa Romana del Casale, when we finally stumbled upon the road sign leading to our destination—the hotel Monaci delle Terre Nere.
Mt. Etna's peak loomed in the distance as we buzzed in at the main gates and drove up to the rust-colored façade of the former aristocratic manor that now houses the hotel's reception and restaurant. Aperitivo was just beginning and we were offered a glass of Etna bianco or rosso, made from the local grapes carricante and nerello mascalese, along with a spread of cheeses and meats. Glasses quickly emptied of the refreshing local wine, we made our way to our room, one of four housed in a beautifully restored farmhouse.
In our suite—two adjacent rooms originally part of a 1730 rural building made of rough-hewn lavic stone—the interplay of minimalist design with the original structure was on full display. Lights were set within the small holes which had held the original wooden beams; our bed projected from the wall, lit from below, seeming to hang in thin air; these, along with every other touch, showed the care and thought that had gone into the restoration of the buildings as a whole. A short walk around the property revealed a greenhouse, kiwi trees, and a grove of oranges, much of which is put to use by the hotel's chef.
We ate in the hotel's Slow Food–certified restaurant and treated ourselves to the four-course menu prepared by chefs Pino Guerrisi and Francesco Troina. We started with a riff on the traditional eggplant caponata, which made use of the abundant wild fennel growing throughout the island, then moved on to a pesto of pistachios from nearby Bronte, just on the opposite side of the volcano. Next, my mother chose a gorgeous swordfish caught that morning served with a parsley, lemon, and olive oil sauce, while my brother and I dug into local lamb with herbs and ratatouille.
Everything the chef prepared showcased the fresh, local produce and in-season fish and meats, with every bite a little more intense and flavorful than the last. Each of the courses paired beautifully with the Etna wines that filled the wine list, from the sparking bianco di nero from Murgo to a rich, leathery 2003 Calabretto Etna Rosso, beautifully aged with a whiff of crushed violets on the nose. Everything was so good that we returned for every dinner of our three days at Monaci, enticed by the ever-changing, tightly curated menu that was presented each morning at breakfast as we sipped our freshly squeezed blood orange juice. —Sarah Bray
Winery visits: Most of the quality wineries are situated on the northern side of Mt. Etna, including Tenuta delle Terre Nere and Passopisciaro. Many require an appointment for a tour, so email or call ahead, and include in your request if you need a tour in English. Tenuta delle Terre Nere, Contrada Calderara, 95036 Randazzo Catania, Italy, +39 095 924002; Passopisciaro Contrada Guardiola, 95012, Castiglione di Sicilia, Italy, +39 0942983225
Taormina: The chic, polished streets of Taormina belie its famed reputation as a resort town, but it’s still worth the day's trip for the Teatro Greco, with its outstanding views of the Mediterranean, and the excellent pizza at Vecchia Taormina. Vico Ebrei 3, Taormina, 98039.
Isola Bella: A 5-minute cable car away from Taormina (or a short walk from the Belvedere, depending on the tide), this island houses a natural reserve with beautifully preserved coastline. Enjoy the pebble beach next to the clear turquoise Mediterranean waters. Cable car departure from Via Luigi Pirandello.
It had been a long day of driving from Agrigento in the southwest, through Enna and Piazza Armerina, home to the lovely and well-preserved Roman mosaics at the Villa Romana del Casale, when we finally stumbled upon the road sign leading to our destination—the hotel Monaci delle Terre Nere.
Mt. Etna's peak loomed in the distance as we buzzed in at the main gates and drove up to the rust-colored façade of the former aristocratic manor that now houses the hotel's reception and restaurant. Aperitivo was just beginning and we were offered a glass of Etna bianco or rosso, made from the local grapes carricante and nerello mascalese, along with a spread of cheeses and meats. Glasses quickly emptied of the refreshing local wine, we made our way to our room, one of four housed in a beautifully restored farmhouse.
In our suite—two adjacent rooms originally part of a 1730 rural building made of rough-hewn lavic stone—the interplay of minimalist design with the original structure was on full display. Lights were set within the small holes which had held the original wooden beams; our bed projected from the wall, lit from below, seeming to hang in thin air; these, along with every other touch, showed the care and thought that had gone into the restoration of the buildings as a whole. A short walk around the property revealed a greenhouse, kiwi trees, and a grove of oranges, much of which is put to use by the hotel's chef.
We ate in the hotel's Slow Food–certified restaurant and treated ourselves to the four-course menu prepared by chefs Pino Guerrisi and Francesco Troina. We started with a riff on the traditional eggplant caponata, which made use of the abundant wild fennel growing throughout the island, then moved on to a pesto of pistachios from nearby Bronte, just on the opposite side of the volcano. Next, my mother chose a gorgeous swordfish caught that morning served with a parsley, lemon, and olive oil sauce, while my brother and I dug into local lamb with herbs and ratatouille.
Everything the chef prepared showcased the fresh, local produce and in-season fish and meats, with every bite a little more intense and flavorful than the last. Each of the courses paired beautifully with the Etna wines that filled the wine list, from the sparking bianco di nero from Murgo to a rich, leathery 2003 Calabretto Etna Rosso, beautifully aged with a whiff of crushed violets on the nose. Everything was so good that we returned for every dinner of our three days at Monaci, enticed by the ever-changing, tightly curated menu that was presented each morning at breakfast as we sipped our freshly squeezed blood orange juice. —Sarah Bray
IN THE AREA
Winery visits: Most of the quality wineries are situated on the northern side of Mt. Etna, including Tenuta delle Terre Nere and Passopisciaro. Many require an appointment for a tour, so email or call ahead, and include in your request if you need a tour in English. Tenuta delle Terre Nere, Contrada Calderara, 95036 Randazzo Catania, Italy, +39 095 924002; Passopisciaro Contrada Guardiola, 95012, Castiglione di Sicilia, Italy, +39 0942983225
Taormina: The chic, polished streets of Taormina belie its famed reputation as a resort town, but it’s still worth the day's trip for the Teatro Greco, with its outstanding views of the Mediterranean, and the excellent pizza at Vecchia Taormina. Vico Ebrei 3, Taormina, 98039.
Isola Bella: A 5-minute cable car away from Taormina (or a short walk from the Belvedere, depending on the tide), this island houses a natural reserve with beautifully preserved coastline. Enjoy the pebble beach next to the clear turquoise Mediterranean waters. Cable car departure from Via Luigi Pirandello.
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