Like a raw pie sliding into the mouth of a 900-degree Acunto oven. That’s how I felt stepping outside the Lisbon airport in early July. I had been warned of Portugal’s aggressive summer temperatures, but even the Lisboans proclaimed the weather grotesque. “We never experience heat like this” cried the cab-driver, later echoed by the hotel receptionist and confirmed by Anabela Bártolo, the manager of the Altis Belém Hotel and Spa who greeted me upon arrival.
Approaching the hotel from the highway, the low-slung building on the bank of the Tagus River and steps from the Doca do Bom Sucesso marina, appears rather benign, inspiring neither giddy anticipation nor disappointment (a too-frequent experience when selecting lodging off the internet.) Closer-up, however, my impression changed. Walking past the gleaming hotel letters in elegant typeface, I was cooled and calmed in temperature and spirit, by the serene, stone lobby; floating, white staircase, and walls of sparkling glass. After a few minutes speaking with the amiable staff, memories of the volcanic heat outside drifted off.
A quick spin through the property led me to the waterfront cocktail lounge, a hip indoor/outdoor affair with a view redolent of San Francisco and the Golden Gate: Lisbon’s vermillion-colored suspension bridge. Although not the only comparison drawn between Lisbon and America’s West Coast city (steep streets and trolleys), the Ponte 25 de Abril was in fact built by the same company that constructed the Bay Bridge.
The hotel views emphasize another asset–its ideal location sandwiched between two impressive, must-see landmarks: the Monument to the Discoveries and the Tower of Belem. The interior designers, Margarida Grácio Nunes and Fernando Sanches Salvador, embraced the theme of “discovery,” weaving into the hotel’s design references to the height of Portugal’s global empire during the 15th and 16th centuries. This is most evident in guest rooms; each one is singular, embellished with a bespoke wall mural depicting a different territory touched by the Portuguese.
The theme of my room was Moçâmedes in Western Angola, a former colony that achieved independence relatively recently in 1975. Although abstract in its regional reference, the snaking lines of green, white and ochre on a black lacquer backdrop were both striking and clever—the graphic adorned a series of closet doors, lending a seamless, artful appearance to the wall. My generous-to-the-point-of-indulgent bathroom was walled in glass—while showering or relaxing in the detached tub, I could still scope the yachts docked next door. However, would-be voyeurs couldn’t return the gaze due to ingenious external folding shutters, laser-cut in an organic pattern reminiscent of sea grass. These concertina shades were operated by push button (as are the blackout curtains), however, and could be fully opened if you prefer your view full monty. The pillows were plush and the bed a true king—not two twins pushed together posing as royalty, as often done in Europe.
Given the weather, a case could be made for staying at the hotel the entire day. Café Mensagem serves a lavish breakfast buffet, sparkling Portuguese wine and fresh-squeezed juices included for impromptu mimosas; I took mine outside in the shade overlooking the river. Afterwards, I dropped down to the spa and seemingly into the crevice of a marble quarry. The complimentary pool, sauna and hammam, finished top-to-bottom in beautiful white marble, are equipped with lounge chairs, towels and robes. The attached Karin Herzog spa offers a multitude of treatments with a focus on oxygen skincare. I sipped a late afternoon cocktail (try the excellent caipirinha) at Bar 38’41 overlooking the Tagus, while contemplating my upcoming dinner at Feitoria, the hotel’s Michelin-starred restaurant helmed by Chef José Cordeiro.
Arriving for a 9 p.m. reservation, the host led me past an arresting gold and black Namban mural—Japanese art from the 16th century depicting early commerce with Portuguese traders known as nambans (“southern barbarians”). The artwork set the tone for a culinary adventure that originated in Portugal but drew on global flavors and textures to create thoughtful dishes. I enjoyed the 6-course tasting menu with predominantly Portuguese wine pairings. Highlights included a foie-gras “cherry” amuse-bouche, cleverly presented atop cherry wood; a delicate scallop tartare playfully dressed with crunchy and sweet mini-macaroons of beetroot, beetroot dust, and ripe, wild strawberries; a tender scarlet shrimp from the Algarve; pungent, fresh oregano flowers on smoky, grilled sea bream; and a perfectly pink pigeon breast draped in honey, lavender and fig. Servers provided attentive service, never failing to refill my wine glass should it dip too low before finishing a course. The main flaw in the evening was dining on the warm outdoor terrace—a wedding party had reserved the entire dining room. Otherwise, the short post-dinner walk to my beckoning bed was a perfect conclusion to a first day not spent in Lisbon. —Lauren Mowery
Monument to the Discoveries: Constructed in 1960 after an earlier, temporary version was erected for the 1940 world fair. This composite of 33 navigators and other historical Portuguese figures was built on a 160-foot high foundation shaped like a ship’s bow. Avenida Brasília, 1400-038 Lisbon, Portugal, 35/12/1303-1950
The Tower of Belém: This 100-foot rook, once the gateway to Lisbon on the mouth of the Tagus, is now a dollhouse of a castle, beautifully preserved and impossible not to photograph. Avenida Brasília, 1400-038 Lisbon, Portugal, 35/12/1362-0034
Jerónimos Monastery : One of many impressive architectural and historic marvels of the area, this may be the most substantial—the grounds, courtyards and displays will satisfy a diversity of interests. Praça do Império, 1400-206 Lisbon, Portugal, 35/12/1362-0034
Palácio Nacional da Ajuda : With the controversial and conversation-worthy Joana Vasconcelos solo exhibit unfortunately concluding on 25 August 2013 [obviously have to take out—insert whatever exhibit is showing at the time of publication?], you’ll still have much to explore over its two floors of decorative arts. Largo Ajuda,1349-021 Lisbon, Portugal, 35/12/1363-7095
Confeitaria de Belém : Just five minutes northeast of the hotel is this confectionary, justly famous for its egg custard tarts. If you only have one while in Lisbon, have it here. When still hot, your first bite through the caramelized top and flaky crust into the gooey center will be revelatory. They are on par with, if not better than, the world’s other famous egg custard tart from Lord Stow’s bakery in Macau. Rua de Belém no 84 a 92. 1300-085 Lisbon, Portugal, 35/12/1363-7423
Approaching the hotel from the highway, the low-slung building on the bank of the Tagus River and steps from the Doca do Bom Sucesso marina, appears rather benign, inspiring neither giddy anticipation nor disappointment (a too-frequent experience when selecting lodging off the internet.) Closer-up, however, my impression changed. Walking past the gleaming hotel letters in elegant typeface, I was cooled and calmed in temperature and spirit, by the serene, stone lobby; floating, white staircase, and walls of sparkling glass. After a few minutes speaking with the amiable staff, memories of the volcanic heat outside drifted off.
A quick spin through the property led me to the waterfront cocktail lounge, a hip indoor/outdoor affair with a view redolent of San Francisco and the Golden Gate: Lisbon’s vermillion-colored suspension bridge. Although not the only comparison drawn between Lisbon and America’s West Coast city (steep streets and trolleys), the Ponte 25 de Abril was in fact built by the same company that constructed the Bay Bridge.
The hotel views emphasize another asset–its ideal location sandwiched between two impressive, must-see landmarks: the Monument to the Discoveries and the Tower of Belem. The interior designers, Margarida Grácio Nunes and Fernando Sanches Salvador, embraced the theme of “discovery,” weaving into the hotel’s design references to the height of Portugal’s global empire during the 15th and 16th centuries. This is most evident in guest rooms; each one is singular, embellished with a bespoke wall mural depicting a different territory touched by the Portuguese.
The theme of my room was Moçâmedes in Western Angola, a former colony that achieved independence relatively recently in 1975. Although abstract in its regional reference, the snaking lines of green, white and ochre on a black lacquer backdrop were both striking and clever—the graphic adorned a series of closet doors, lending a seamless, artful appearance to the wall. My generous-to-the-point-of-indulgent bathroom was walled in glass—while showering or relaxing in the detached tub, I could still scope the yachts docked next door. However, would-be voyeurs couldn’t return the gaze due to ingenious external folding shutters, laser-cut in an organic pattern reminiscent of sea grass. These concertina shades were operated by push button (as are the blackout curtains), however, and could be fully opened if you prefer your view full monty. The pillows were plush and the bed a true king—not two twins pushed together posing as royalty, as often done in Europe.
Given the weather, a case could be made for staying at the hotel the entire day. Café Mensagem serves a lavish breakfast buffet, sparkling Portuguese wine and fresh-squeezed juices included for impromptu mimosas; I took mine outside in the shade overlooking the river. Afterwards, I dropped down to the spa and seemingly into the crevice of a marble quarry. The complimentary pool, sauna and hammam, finished top-to-bottom in beautiful white marble, are equipped with lounge chairs, towels and robes. The attached Karin Herzog spa offers a multitude of treatments with a focus on oxygen skincare. I sipped a late afternoon cocktail (try the excellent caipirinha) at Bar 38’41 overlooking the Tagus, while contemplating my upcoming dinner at Feitoria, the hotel’s Michelin-starred restaurant helmed by Chef José Cordeiro.
Arriving for a 9 p.m. reservation, the host led me past an arresting gold and black Namban mural—Japanese art from the 16th century depicting early commerce with Portuguese traders known as nambans (“southern barbarians”). The artwork set the tone for a culinary adventure that originated in Portugal but drew on global flavors and textures to create thoughtful dishes. I enjoyed the 6-course tasting menu with predominantly Portuguese wine pairings. Highlights included a foie-gras “cherry” amuse-bouche, cleverly presented atop cherry wood; a delicate scallop tartare playfully dressed with crunchy and sweet mini-macaroons of beetroot, beetroot dust, and ripe, wild strawberries; a tender scarlet shrimp from the Algarve; pungent, fresh oregano flowers on smoky, grilled sea bream; and a perfectly pink pigeon breast draped in honey, lavender and fig. Servers provided attentive service, never failing to refill my wine glass should it dip too low before finishing a course. The main flaw in the evening was dining on the warm outdoor terrace—a wedding party had reserved the entire dining room. Otherwise, the short post-dinner walk to my beckoning bed was a perfect conclusion to a first day not spent in Lisbon. —Lauren Mowery
IN THE AREA
Monument to the Discoveries: Constructed in 1960 after an earlier, temporary version was erected for the 1940 world fair. This composite of 33 navigators and other historical Portuguese figures was built on a 160-foot high foundation shaped like a ship’s bow. Avenida Brasília, 1400-038 Lisbon, Portugal, 35/12/1303-1950
The Tower of Belém: This 100-foot rook, once the gateway to Lisbon on the mouth of the Tagus, is now a dollhouse of a castle, beautifully preserved and impossible not to photograph. Avenida Brasília, 1400-038 Lisbon, Portugal, 35/12/1362-0034
Jerónimos Monastery : One of many impressive architectural and historic marvels of the area, this may be the most substantial—the grounds, courtyards and displays will satisfy a diversity of interests. Praça do Império, 1400-206 Lisbon, Portugal, 35/12/1362-0034
Palácio Nacional da Ajuda : With the controversial and conversation-worthy Joana Vasconcelos solo exhibit unfortunately concluding on 25 August 2013 [obviously have to take out—insert whatever exhibit is showing at the time of publication?], you’ll still have much to explore over its two floors of decorative arts. Largo Ajuda,1349-021 Lisbon, Portugal, 35/12/1363-7095
Confeitaria de Belém : Just five minutes northeast of the hotel is this confectionary, justly famous for its egg custard tarts. If you only have one while in Lisbon, have it here. When still hot, your first bite through the caramelized top and flaky crust into the gooey center will be revelatory. They are on par with, if not better than, the world’s other famous egg custard tart from Lord Stow’s bakery in Macau. Rua de Belém no 84 a 92. 1300-085 Lisbon, Portugal, 35/12/1363-7423
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